Visiting Petra, a rose-red city, while travelling in Jordan

Petra by John William Burgon

It seems no work of Man’s creative hand, by labour wrought as wavering fancy planned; But from the rock as if by magic grown, eternal, silent, beautiful, alone! Not virgin-white like that old Doric shrine, where erst Athena held her rites divine; Not Saintly-grey, like many a minster fane, that crowns the hill and consecrates the plain; But rose-red as if the blush of dawn, that first beheld them were not yet withdrawn; The hues of youth upon a brow of woe, which Man deemed old two thousand years ago, Match me such Marvel save in Easter Clime, a rose-red city half as  old as time. -John William Burgon

Petra, the rose-red city

Petra, illustrated as the rose-red city by John William Burgon because of the color of the rock architectures, extends for 60 square kilometers (23,1661 miles) through canyons, mountains and riverbeds. Located 240 km (149 miles) south of Amman and 120 km (75 miles) north of Aqaba, Petra is known as one of the Seven Wonders of the World. It is not surprising I would want to visit during my seven months stay in Jordan. Being a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1985 most of my visitors to Jordan wanted to take in Jordan’s most explored tourist attraction as well, sending me through Petra at least five times. Knowing a thing or two about Petra by now, I’ve prepared a bit of information to make your experience smooth and memorable.

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Preparing for your visit

As you prepare for your visit, keep in mind that Petra is mainly hot and dry with summer temperatures reaching up to 36 degrees Celsius (nearly 97 degree Fahrenheit). If not restricted by work or school, I advise visiting Petra in Spring or Autumn. Being vary spacious, crowds aren’t as much of a deterrence when walking through the wide open, sun-soaked passages lined with Nabateen rock carvings and structures. There are many places to seek shelter from the sun to include exploring the carved out and built structures, souvenir tents, and restaurants within Petra, but most of your visit will be spent in the sun walking between points of interest. If you choose to explore Petra in the Winter, keep in mind that the Winters are rainy, and the area has seen devastating flooding recently. Make sure you pack items that will help you stay dry.

Petra is big, sandy, and outside

I can’t stress this enough. Petra is big, Petra is sandy, Petra is outside, and there are a lot of ascents and descents in Petra. Wear shoes and socks that your feet love after they have been abused an entire day. The main trail distance is four Km, but you will walk much further than this. Wear clothes that will shelter your skin from constant attacks by the sun and that you don’t mind sweating in. Sunglasses, a hat, and light scarf all help me to feel more comfortable journeying around. I recommend the infinity scarf, especially for women as it can be worn around the neck, over the shoulders, on the head, or as face protection from dust. If you forget any of these items, don’t worry, the Bedouins working within Petra have set up many stalls to accommodate all your needs…of course, at tourist prices. Petra is a tourist destination, so you can be comfortable wearing everyday attire. I saw one woman in a midriff shirt and mini skirt. I don’t recommend this, I only use this as an extreme example.

Bring a backpack

You can carry a backpack into Petra. I suggest this. It’s a great place to store snacks, water, sunscreen, toilet paper, hand sanitizer, your camera and other essentials you will need for a day of walking in the sun. Plus, all the items you buy from the souvenir stands, as well as the items you get tricked into buying from the many Bedouin Children running around, are more easily carried in a bag then in your hands.

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Tip: Don’t get tricked!

Don’t take anything from a child…or any person running around Petra. It’s a common tactic, especially of the children, to place an item in your hand, refuse to take it back, and expect payment. The children will follow you long distances. It can be fun to interact with the children, but if you are one that is easily pressured, or you don’t like such engagements, steer clear of interacting with the children or accepting items. I have yet to see a souvenir stand use such selling tactics, I am mainly highlighting those walking about Petra with items to sell.

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How much does Petra cost?

It costs 50 Jordanian Dinar (JD), $70 USD, to enter Petra for non-Jordanians staying one night in Jordan. The price increases to 90 JD or $126.85 if not staying overnight in Jordan. You can buy a Jordan Pass for 70 JD which will cover a one-day visit to Petra, free entry to over 40 attractions in Jordan, and a waiver for tourist entry visa when entering the country which is 40 JD or $56 USD. I highly recommend the Jordan Pass which can be Purchased ahead of time from the Ministry of Tourism and Antiquities.

Rental car to Petra

I was lucky enough to have my own rental car so I drove from Amman to Petra which takes at least 3 ½ hours on the Desert Highway or 4 hours and upwards on the 280 km King’s Highway, one of the Middle East’s most scenic and ancient routes. You will find few shops and gas stations along your route so make sure you carry plenty of water and snacks, and fully fuel up ahead of your journey. There are some roads that will take you into the “middle of nowhere” therefore ensure you have all necessary supplies in your car in the event of an emergency.

Important tip if driving a rental car

If driving, make sure you have your license and passport, the cars plastic license/registration card, and a paper used to document any tickets. The rental agency should give you this. Insist on taking these documents. If you get pulled over at the many police checkpoints along the way, police officers monitor along the road and will do random pullovers, they will demand these documents. It is illegal not to have the car registration card. Many officers cannot or will not speak English. You do not pay fines directly to police officers. I am making this note because it is highly likely to get pulled over when driving outside Amman. If you have all your documents and are following the laws, you have no need to worry during these checks. Ensure you are respectful to the officers pulling you over. I am sure they don’t want to be sitting on the side of the road either.

Other transportation options to Petra

If you are not comfortable driving in Jordan, driving can be intense, or if you don’t want to pay for a rental car you have other options.There is a bus that travels from Abdali Station in Amman to Petra and back daily costing approximately 11 JD or $15.50 USD. It is highly advisable to book your bus ticket before hand at JETT.com (www.jett.com.jo).

It’s also possible to grab a taxi for 60 JD or more one way to Petra. There are taxis hovering around the gates of Petra for your ride back.

Furthermore, there are several tour agencies that will make trips to Petra a breeze but may be a bit costly for those on a stricter budget. I did not take any tours, so I cannot make solid recommendations toward which service may be the best.

If coming from Aqaba you can grab a public bus which departs from the market in the town center (Mojamaaalbassat) or its also possible to travel the two hour journey by taxi.

Arriving to Petra

Moving past various storefronts, restaurants, and businesses within Wadi Musa you will see the entrance to Petra situated just off the main village road and standing directly across from the Movenpick hotel. There are plenty of options for eating, sleeping, and buying souvenirs within the village if electing to stay overnight. Most visitors spend only one day at Petra entering through the gate at the Petra Visitor center. There are other remote destinations that can be planned for, but to see all Petra has to offer you will need three days at least. You can explore these options more at the Visit Petra website (http://visitpetra.jo/Pages/viewpage.aspx?pageID=137).

What time is Petra open?

Open from 6 am to 6 pm during the summer, fall, and spring and from 6 am to 4 pm in the winter I advise arriving early in the morning before the weather gets too hot and the crowds start to move in. There is also an option to see Petra at night lit by candle light for 17 JD ($24 USD) every Monday,Wednesday, and Thursday beginning at 8:30 pm and lasting until 10:30 pm. You must have a valid daylight ticket to see Petra by night.

Entering Petra

Entering a large circular courtyard enclosed by souvenir shops, bathrooms, and ticketing windows those that did not buy the Jordan Pass will move left to a covered hall housing the ticketing office. All others will walk straight through the courtyard, down the steps, and through the gated security entrance.

The animals in Petra

You will be encouraged by Bedouin men, some looking like Jack Sparrow, to take a ride on the Camels, horses, donkeys, and carriages throughout Petra. These offers will begin as soon as you enter Petra and will continue through your visit. This is your choice. I’ve ridden a camel once in Petra accompanied by great internal dilemma. I’ve witnessed the abuse of the animals by the local children such as throwing large rocks at them and hitting them repeatedly with sticks and other objects. Additionally, its not known how well the animals are taken care of and how often they can rest or are given water and food. I’ve also seen a camel with Free Wifi advertised on its neck. I would be a hypocrite to discourage you from using these paid services, but I feel obligated to let you know that if you are an animal lover you may see some things that will break your heart.

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  A donkey stands loosely attached to a rock in Petra.
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  A dog snoozes the sunny afternoon away next to donkeys in Petra.
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  A camel advertises free wifi on its neck.
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  Horses rest between carriage rides through Petra.
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  Opted for the fast and easy ride out of Petra by camel.

How to walk Petra

You will first access the Treasury by passing Obelisk Tomb and moving through the Siq. I advise you to pause at the Treasury now. Yes, you will come back, but I find after walking through Petra all day, one’s enthusiasm tends to drop, and the focus turns to getting back to the car or hotel and relaxing.

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  The moon peeks over Obelisk Tomb in Petra
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  A woman in a red shawl walks along Al-Siq in Petra.
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  A small tree fights to survive in the hot rocks of Petra.
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  A horse drawn carriage hurries through the As-Siq back toward the visitor center.
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  Brush grows out of rock in As-Siq.
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  Remnants of the water control system used in Petra.
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  Steps wander into rock in the As-Siq.
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  A carriage ride through the Siq toward the treasury at Petra.
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  The Treasury prominently stands at the end of the As-Siq.
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  Bedouin men sell bracelets to visitors.

Next, resist the urge to see Petra from front to back after the treasury. Every group I’ve taken into Petra started from the front and missed the Monastery in the back.  I suggest moving directly to the back, enjoying the views of the theatre, Nymphaeum, Colonnaded Street, Great Temple, and Qasr Al Bint along the way, with a focus on climbing up to the Monastery.

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  A view over the desert toward Great Temple.
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  Beautiful mosaic tiles decorate the Byzantine Church.
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  A look up toward Urn Tomb.
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  Construction of Petra began in the 6th century BC as a capital for the Nabataean people.

As you move up the series of steps to the Monastery you will find souvenir stands along the way. You can take a break at a café with shisha, coffee, snacks, and other drinks overlooking the Monastery courtyard.

Just past the Monastery you can climb to the top of small rock formations, take in the views of the rugged desert mountains and canyons, and shop at the souvenir stands situated sporadically atop the rock peaks. Of course, each shop claims the best view, so it can be a journey in itself to choose a favorite.

I enjoyed seeing each landmark within Petra, but aside from climbing beyond the Monastery to the small souvenir’s shops planted atop the rocks, I was also amazed by the colors within the Urn Tomb. I found that standing beside the entrance against the wall made the most amazing portraits. If you get a chance to take a photo there, please share it with me. I’d love to see the beauty your are able to capture on your visit to Petra.