Lake de Nino, a glacial lake in the middle of the valley at the 6th stage on GR20.
For those that don’t know, a way marked trail is one that has signs or markings at undefined intervals to help people find their way along a path. I’m courageous, but I knew that hiking alone on an unmarked trail for two weeks without thorough planning wasn’t a wise idea. For my first long distance walk I chose to stick to the picture path. I recommend the same for new hikers as there is so much more to learn about walking before you learn how to navigate yourself through the wilderness.
For example, you can spend an entire walk learning about socks, just as I did. Choosing to listen to the recommendations to walk the trail North to South, I arrived at Gite D’Etape Communal in Calenzana late in the evening. This is a great place to sleep at the foot of the trail head. Traveling all day by everything except boat and horse drawn carriage and eating only a few snacks on the plane, I was exhausted. A wise older gentleman and his two daughters randomly offered me half a baguette. I politely refused at first, but immediately accepted on the second offer.
I never got their names, but maybe one day they will read this and know their generosity was my dinner and breakfast, and for this I am eternally grateful. Thank you whoever you are!
On with the socks though. Why would I begin by talking about socks? Well, I woke up later than I wanted and didn’t feel like digging for good hiking socks in my bag, so thought my travel socks would be fine. Yes, guilty, I wore my socks twice in a row! I’ve got news for you, they weren’t the only things I wore over and over and over.
Unless you want to break your back carrying a cute outfit for every day, get used to the funk and only take what is necessary.
Dirty socks weren’t my problem, socks that stood on their own weren’t my problem, socks that emitted toxic green vapors weren’t my problem. My problem was, these socks were never meant for distance. You know, the ones you wear to the office or about town because you couldn’t find any clean ones you really like and by the end of the day you have a red hot spot on the heal. I didn’t know my socks were vicious until the end of day one.
The GR20 is known for its rough and rocky terrain. I remember reminding myself often throughout the hike to look up so I wouldn’t miss the beauty around me. The terrain, especially through the first half from Calenzana to Vizzavona can be heck on the feet. You’ve heard it before and I will tell you again, buy proper fitting footwear and break it in. Try out your socks well before the hike. Make sure your socks aren’t deceptive jerks. Misery loves company and once one foot starts screaming its my experience the other one isn’t far behind.
Take care of your feet, they are doing a lot of work for you so you can enjoy your time. If they start hurting pay attention to them and care for them as quickly as possible.
Without surprise, the GR20 is beautiful. The 200 km trail, now extended by 20 km form 180 km, is varied by steep ascents and descents in the North from Calenzana to Vizzavona and long exposed ridges in the South from Vizzavona to Conca.
I experienced beautiful sunsets from each of the designated camping areas along the route to beautiful sunrises from the top of craggy mountain tops with the wind whipping along the face of the rocks. I basked in the sun on smooth granite and jumped from boulders into the brilliantly clear water.
Most days I was met by horses, cows, mountain goats, donkeys, and doggies. My favorite was either the donkeys pleading to come into the Bergerie during dinner or the mountain goats balanced perfectly along the cliff edges. In all cases I wondered how these animals got to where they were. I struggled to walk the trail set before me, and here this goat is doing gymnastics on a pebble. I can’t neglect to mention the cow that played hide and seek. For those that think animals have no personality, please spend more time outdoors listening, watching, and positively interacting.
I met many people and made many memories along the Northern route, then said goodbye to most of them at a small restaurant nestled beside the train station at the midway point. I enjoyed more solidarity along the Southern half of the trail breathing in the fresh air of the woodlands and consuming the views of vast ridge lines and coastal landscapes.
I finished my hike in 10 days, rather than the suggested 14, now 16, because I wanted to take advantage of relaxing on the beach and experiencing the local cultures. I’ve never regretted this choice, as the beaches and towns in Corsica are equally beautiful. At the end of the trail I came to a little store in the middle of town where I took a photo in front of a trail plaque, replenished with some tasty snacks, and waited for the bus to shuttle me away from the end of my journey.
Corsica Trip Planning for Hikers
A Quick & Dirty Guide to Corsica’s GR20
The GR20 Corsica: The High Level Route
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Contact me with questions and feedback.
Janina Stromfield | 14th Dec 18
Great read! I agree totally about the socks!!
Adventures of an Oxymoron | 15th Dec 18
Yes, Socks! Hahahaha!
Tony | 14th Nov 18
Excellent run down of your fabulous adventure! How extremely cool to just launch into it… and run headlong into blisters! That’ll learn ya.
I’d be interested in your pack list/weight. As you mentioned, you quickly discovered how much stuff you brought that you absolutely did not need.
Awesome stuff. Congrats on knocking this one out!
Adventures of an Oxymoron | 14th Nov 18
Good idea Tony. I’ll put a pack list together and add it as a quick tip. Thanks for the fantastic feedback.
Natalia | 14th Nov 18
I love how crazy and brave you are. Although I enjoy traveling on my own from time time I would have never done tracking in the mountains by myself.
Adventures of an Oxymoron | 14th Nov 18
Thank Natalia. You’re are tough though. I know you could do it too.