GR20: What you need to know to hike the trail

Lake de Nino, a glacial lake in the middle of the valley at the 6th stage on GR20.

          My decision to hike the GR20 as a beginner started with a desire to walk away from the ordinary and a quick internet search of the toughest way marked hikes in Europe.

 

For those that don’t know, a way marked trail is one that has signs or markings at undefined intervals to help people find their way along a path. I’m courageous, but I knew that hiking alone on an unmarked trail for two weeks without thorough planning wasn’t a wise idea. For my first long distance walk I chose to stick to the picture path. I recommend the same for new hikers as there is so much more to learn about walking before you learn how to navigate yourself through the wilderness.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

For example, you can spend an entire walk learning about socks, just as I did. Choosing to listen to the recommendations to walk the trail North to South, I arrived at Gite D’Etape Communal in Calenzana late in the evening. This is a great place to sleep at the foot of the trail head. Traveling all day by everything except boat and horse drawn carriage and eating only a few snacks on the plane, I was exhausted. A wise older gentleman and his two daughters randomly offered me half a baguette. I politely refused at first, but immediately accepted on the second offer.

I never got their names, but maybe one day they will read this and know their generosity was my dinner and breakfast, and for this I am eternally grateful. Thank you whoever you are!

 

 

On with the socks though. Why would I begin by talking about socks? Well, I woke up later than I wanted and didn’t feel like digging for good hiking socks in my bag, so thought my travel socks would be fine. Yes, guilty, I wore my socks twice in a row! I’ve got news for you, they weren’t the only things I wore over and over and over.

Unless you want to break your back carrying a cute outfit for every day, get used to the funk and only take what is necessary.

Dirty socks weren’t my problem, socks that stood on their own weren’t my problem, socks that emitted toxic green vapors weren’t my problem. My problem was, these socks were never meant for distance. You know, the ones you wear to the office or about town because you couldn’t find any clean ones you really like and by the end of the day you have a red hot spot on the heal. I didn’t know my socks were vicious until the end of day one.

 

The GR20 is known for its rough and rocky terrain. I remember reminding myself often throughout the hike to look up so I wouldn’t miss the beauty around me. The terrain, especially through the first half from Calenzana to Vizzavona can be heck on the feet. You’ve heard it before and I will tell you again, buy proper fitting footwear and break it in. Try out your socks well before the hike. Make sure your socks aren’t deceptive jerks. Misery loves company and once one foot starts screaming its my experience the other one isn’t far behind.

Take care of your feet, they are doing a lot of work for you so you can enjoy your time. If they start hurting pay attention to them and care for them as quickly as possible.

 

 

Without surprise, the GR20 is beautiful. The 200 km trail, now extended by 20 km form 180 km, is varied by steep ascents and descents in the North from Calenzana to Vizzavona and long exposed ridges in the South from Vizzavona to Conca.

 

 

 

 

I experienced beautiful sunsets from each of the designated camping areas along the route to beautiful sunrises from the top of craggy mountain tops with the wind whipping along the face of the rocks. I basked in the sun on smooth granite and jumped from boulders into the brilliantly clear water.

 

 

Most days I was met by horses, cows, mountain goats, donkeys, and doggies. My favorite was either the donkeys pleading to come into the Bergerie during dinner or the mountain goats balanced perfectly along the cliff edges. In all cases I wondered how these animals got to where they were. I struggled to walk the trail set before me, and here this goat is doing gymnastics on a pebble. I can’t neglect to mention the cow that played hide and seek. For those that think animals have no personality, please spend more time outdoors listening, watching, and positively interacting.

 

 

I met many people and made many memories along the Northern route, then said goodbye to most of them at a small restaurant nestled beside the train station at the midway point. I enjoyed more solidarity along the Southern half of the trail breathing in the fresh air of the woodlands and consuming the views of vast ridge lines and coastal landscapes.

I finished my hike in 10 days, rather than the suggested 14, now 16, because I wanted to take advantage of relaxing on the beach and experiencing the local cultures. I’ve never regretted this choice, as the beaches and towns in Corsica are equally beautiful. At the end of the trail I came to a little store in the middle of town where I took a photo in front of a trail plaque, replenished with some tasty snacks, and waited for the bus to shuttle me away from the end of my journey.

 

Quick Tips:

• Hike the GR20 late June or early September: Weather is not so hot, the trail is not as crowded as mid summer and the refuges are open.

 

• Hike the GR20 North to South: Calenzana to Vizzavona is the most difficult half of the trail with steep ascents and descents.

 

• Stay at Gite D’Etape: If starting from the North you can stay at Gite D’Etape Communal in Calenzana before hitting the trail.

 

• Bring food: Pack snacks for your travel day to the trail and for your first day. There are bergeries and refuges along the route where you can buy food to include dinner, but the prices can be expensive. After all, if you hiked there imagine how the food gets there.

 

• Plan your entry and exit well: It can take many forms of transportation to get there and back depending where you come from. On the same note, bring cash for transportation to and from the trail and for any food you will eat along the way. My taxi to Calenzana from the train station, just under 9 km, was 45 euros.

 

• Bring a tent: Unless you book your stays along the route well ahead of time I  highly recommend to bring a tent. Tenting was fun!

 

• Shoes and socks: Break in your shoes and find socks that will keep your feet dry and blister free.

 

• Plan a stay at the beach once you reach Conca: There are plenty of beaches that allow camping a little ride from the trail finish.

 

• Get a GR20 map and guide book: Well before you depart on your journey find a good map and guide book. Both are easy to get online.

 

• Plan your route: Though the route has 16 stages that take between 4 and 8 hours, as well as low and high routes, you can complete the trail faster or slower depending on if you double up stages on select day and the weather. I completed the 14 stage trail in 10 days, some finish faster others finish slower than 16 days.

 

• PLAN FOR THE WEATHER!!!! Plan extra days for bad weather. I experienced some of the worst weather of my life on that trail. The first night was so hot I didn’t want to touch my own skin while sleeping. Another night the wind was so fierce and weather so cold I shivered my way through a few hours of on and off sleep while keeping my tent from turning me into a burrito. Some people lost their tents in the wind.

 

• LISTEN TO THE WEATHER!!!! I put weather twice because it is serious! Just one month before I left for my journey five people were killed from landslides. If the weather report is bad, if the weather looks bad, or if its later in the afternoon do not move on to the next stage! Its an island and weather changes quick. I ignored the recommendation of not starting a stage in the afternoon and was caught in a pretty scary weather situation along a slick slate ridge line.

 

For more information check out:

Corsica Trip Planning for Hikers

Hiking the GR20 in Corsica

A Quick & Dirty Guide to Corsica’s GR20

The GR20 Corsica: The High Level Route

Walkopedia: GR20

or

Contact me with questions and feedback.